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Kogin Hair Button project

JANE MACDONALD RUNS HER STUDIO, BEBE BOLD, FROM THE NORTHERN RIVERS REGION OF NSW. FROM THERE SHE WORKS WITH A SMALL TEAM WHO SHARE HER INTEREST IN JAPANESE FABRICS AND CRAFTS.

 

 

“I enjoy the process of creating designs, travelling with them, teaching at craft shows… I even find myself teaching on cruise ships!”

 

In this Hair Button project she uses the kogin embroidery technique, which is a variation of sashiko from Japan.

The name is derived from koginu, a hemp fabric used in short working jackets and is worked on evenweave fabric with stitches of uneven length in an over/under darning pattern and only stitched horizontally. Designs are usually diamond shaped.

 

Materials

  • 1 x 3cm plastic self cover button
  • 1 x 3in square of 18 count embroidery cloth
  • 1m length kogin 6 stranded thread
  • 1 kogin needle
  • Dental floss for drawing up button
  • 12cm (5in) length hair elastic

 

Method

STEP 1:

Thread the needle and fold and finger press the fabric in half and then in half again to find the centre. Come up through the START hole.

STEP 2:

The ruled dark lines on the graph depict the stitches and the little squares are the holes, so working towards the left hand side and from where you came up, count three holes. Go down into the third hole and gently pull up the stitch leaving a 2in length of thread at the back. Hold onto the tail and carry the stitch underneath the fabric and come up in the sixth hole, one row up from where you started. Now put your needle through the fifth hole. Work to the end of the row following the graph.

STEP 3:

Keep the stitches looking plump as you work, as this makes for a nice design. When moving up to the new row it’s important to leave a tiny loop at the back for easing. Keep working from left to right until you complete one half of the flower.

STEP 4:

To complete the other half simply weave the thread under some stitches at the back, working down to the middle. Then repeat to complete the other half.

STEP 5:

Weave the loose ends of the threads under some stitches to secure.

 

To make up the button:

 

STEP 1:

Cut out the shape (click here to download and print) and line up the centre with the centre of the flower. Draw around the pattern and cut out on the line.

STEP 2:

Using dental floss and a generous ¼” seam allowance, gather around the circle.

STEP 3:

Insert button cover and gather up around button evenly. Pull up tight and secure with extra stitches.

STEP 4:

Apply a small amount of fabric craft glue into the centre and then pop the button backing into position to secure it.

STEP 5:

Attach the elastic to complete the project.

Kits and all materials  are available from BeBe Bold. Thank you Jane for sharing this sweet project!

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